Brussels sprouts casio cultivation and care. Learning to grow Brussels sprouts. Caring for Brussels sprouts in open ground

Brussels sprouts cannot be confused with other types of cabbage. This plant is up to 100 centimeters or more in height with medium-sized leaves on long stems. Heads of cabbage form in the axils of deciduous cuttings different shades. There are 30-70 of them tied on one stem. In the second year, instead of fruits, flowering shoots appear on the plant, which, due to cross-pollination, form seeds. The germination of these seeds is maintained for 5 years.

A wide variety of varieties pleases lovers of this type of cabbage.

When choosing a variety to plant on your site, it is important to take into account three properties of the crop:

1. Maturation. Cabbage varieties have different ripening periods: the maximum is more than 170 days, the minimum is 120.
2. Productivity. A different number of fruits is possible. On average, there are 50 heads per plant, but some produce up to 70.
3. Availability of useful substances. Breeding modern developments offer hybrids with high protein content, folic acid, vitamins, minerals, carotene.

There are different types of Brussels sprouts:

• Varietal - the variety has stable characteristics that are passed on to the next generation when propagated by seeds. They are characterized by large heads of cabbage with excellent taste and long ripening time.
• Hybrid - its bred characteristics are best manifested in the first generation. The height of the plant is slightly shorter, and the number of fruits is larger; they are located along the entire length of the trunk. They ripen at the same time and remain firm for 2-3 weeks.

Brussels sprouts have light-colored leaves, but plants high in anthocyanins turn red.

The best varieties believe:

Perfection

Russian mid-late cabbage with a yield of 5 kg of fruit per year per bush. It has excellent taste and healthy qualities. Suitable for use in any form.

Zavitka (Czech Republic)

A productive late-ripening variety. It begins to bear fruit on the 160th day and lasts for 20 days. The height of the stem reaches 90 cm, many heads grow, but small ones up to 15 g.

Rosella (Germany)

The ripening period is 170 days. The plant grows up to 90 cm, the fruits are dense green with a blue tint, weighing up to 13 g. The main feature of the variety is the uniform ripening of the fruits and suitability for long-term storage.

Rudnef

The variety is high-yielding. The height of the stem is up to 50 cm with a yield of 1 kg of cabbages of 20 g each. Withstands frosts as low as -70 C. Suitable for long-term storage and preparation different dishes.

Hercules (Russia)

Fruiting begins 150 days after germination. The plant grows in height up to 40-70 cm with 12 gram oval or round shape. Frost-resistant. With good taste.

Growing seedlings

Unpretentious, frost-resistant Brussels sprouts have the longest growing season compared to their relatives - 120-180, and some varieties even more than 180 days. This feature entails the need to grow it mainly through seedlings.

Timing for planting seedlings

The time at which the growing process begins directly depends on the temperature and the selected seed variety. The optimal time for early-medium varieties is mid-March, and for mid-late varieties - early April.

You can grow Brussels sprouts seedlings in a heated greenhouse, a glassed-in balcony, or a windowsill, most importantly maintaining 70% air humidity and good lighting.

Preparing seeds for planting

A particularly important point in growing seedlings is seed preparation. To do this:

• seeds are kept in damp cloth for 5 days;
• heat in hot water (500 C) for 20 minutes;
• then dipping in cold water, soak for 10 hours. in manganese solution;
• washed after potassium permanganate, they are placed in the refrigerator for a day;
• After 24 hours, the seeds that have undergone the preparation process are dried.

Preparing seeds for sowing will increase their germination, rid the plant of diseases and pests, and increase resistance to cold.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

To sow seeds, prepare a soil mixture consisting of: peat, turf soil, sand, wood ash mixed in equal proportions with the addition of mineral fertilizer. It is undesirable to use soil from the garden and humus - there is a danger of infection with blackleg.

The containers are filled with the finished soil, watered with a manganese solution and the grooves are pressed to a depth of 1.5 cm with an interval between rows of up to 10 cm. The seeds are laid out in the grooves at a distance of ~ 4 cm from each other, covered with soil lightly, pressing down. The container is covered with glass or cellophane to create greenhouse effect.

Seedling care

The sown seeds in a container are kept in a room with a temperature of up to 200 C, and the soil is sprinkled with water if necessary. The first shoots will appear in a week.

At this time, it is advisable to lower the temperature and open the plants so that the seedlings do not stretch out.

With the appearance of the first true leaf on the 9th day, the plant requires special care; it consists of:

1. picking - transplanting sprouts to a new place. To do this, prepare separate cups, pots or larger containers, fill them with fresh soil mixture, and water them with a manganese solution;
2. the seedlings, together with a lump of earth, are carefully transplanted to a new prepared place, deepening it down to the cotyledon leaves;
3. watering the seedlings with warm water and loosening the soil;
4. 2-stage feeding. The first (non-root) should be carried out after the development of 3 true leaves. A solution is prepared from 10 liters of water, superphosphate (40 g), potassium sulfate (10 g). The second is carried out after 2 weeks, for it superphosphate (60 g), potassium sulfate (20 g), ammonium nitrate (30 g) are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Fertilizers are applied to watered soil;
5. Humidity control to prevent overwatering, which can lead to blackleg disease.

Hardening off seedlings

Before planting Brussels sprouts in the garden, they need to be hardened off. To do this, you need to provide access to atmospheric air. If seedlings are grown indoors, they are taken outside. The hardening process is carried out over 15 days, starting from 0.5 hours with a daily increase in time until planting on the prepared site.

Optimal timing of planting in the ground

Seedlings with a stem thickness of ~5 mm with at least 5 leaves up to 20 cm high are ready for transplanting into open ground. Usually this is the last ten days of May - mid-June.

A week before planting seedlings in open ground, stop watering them. The day before planting, water the plant generously to create as large a lump of soil around the roots as possible.

Soil preparation and planting scheme for Brussels sprouts

The right place for growing cabbage is the key to an excellent harvest. It depends on what crops sprouted last season in this garden bed. If the predecessors were grains, legumes, potatoes, carrots, or onions - great. And it is advisable to abandon the garden bed where beets, tomatoes, and radishes grew.

Repeated cultivation of Brussels sprouts in one area is possible no earlier than 4 years.

Brussels sprouts grow well in sunny southern or southeastern areas. Loves loamy, fertile soil. Its preparation begins in the fall with deep digging (to the depth of a shovel). If necessary, add lime. In spring, the soil is fertilized with organic matter per square meter. m - 1 bucket, loosen to a depth of 5 cm. Additionally, when planting seedlings, add to each hole: 2 cups of wood ash, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 1 tsp. urea.

In prepared soil, seedlings are planted in holes located according to the pattern - 60x60 cm. The size of the dug hole should be larger than the size of the root system of the seedling along with the lump. Fertilizers are placed in it, lightly mixed with soil, then the seedling is transferred from the seedling container to the prepared hole using the transfer method. Watering with warm water is covered with light compaction.

The yield of Brussels sprouts depends on proper care behind her.

The most important activities are: treatment of row spacing - destruction of weeds, loosening the soil, maintaining the air-water regime. After the trunk is fully formed, you need to pinch the last bud to improve stimulation of fruit ripening. Since Brussels sprouts grow for a long time, and the distance between the seedlings is quite large, it is allowed to plant some early crops between them: tomatoes, cucumbers.

Watering and fertilizing cabbage

The plant is moisture-loving and requires regular watering. During growth and fruiting, it is watered 10 or more times. In this case, it is advisable to water deeply, pouring up to 8 liters of water per 1 square meter. m, and during the period of fruit formation up to 10-12 liters. In rainy weather, the frequency of watering and the amount of water used must be adjusted. Cabbage is watered in 3 ways: sprinkling, furrow and drip.

After 2 weeks from the moment of planting, the formation of a rosette of leaves begins, and the time comes to increase nitrogen nutrition. The first fertilizing is carried out. It depends on how well the beds were fertilized in the fall. If all norms for the application of organic fertilizers are met, then the first fertilizing can be limited to the application of nitrogen-containing mixtures; after the appearance of the first ovaries, fertilizing with potassium salt can be carried out. Organic fertilizer diluted in water is also used: mullein 1:6, bird droppings 1:10, slurry 1:4 for up to 1.5 liters of solution per plant.

The fertilizing process must be approached with caution - an excess of fertilizer can affect the quality of the heads of cabbage, they will be loose, a lack of nitrogen will appear on the green mass - the lower leaves will begin to turn yellow and fall off.

Hilling up and loosening the soil

Considering the peculiarity of the structure of Brussels sprouts - the largest heads are formed in the axils of the lower leaves, hilling is not carried out or is carried out in a small layer. During the growth, development and maturation of plants, up to 6 or more loosenings are carried out, always after watering or precipitation.

Delaying loosening will retard their growth. The first is carried out on the 3rd day after planting the seedlings. The main thing is not to forget to mulch the bed.

Pre-harvest care

A week before the expected harvest, the leaves are removed from the plant. So, from plants that ripen at the same time, they are removed at once, trying not to disturb the integrity of the heads. And with gradual ripening - in 2-3 steps, the leaves are removed only from the intended harvest area.

Collection and storage

Harvesting begins after the fruits reach maturity. It is distinguished by maximum value, the special shine of the head, the yellowed leaf at the base. Early-medium varieties ripen in September-October. Brussels sprouts of these varieties are harvested in 2-3 stages. Starting from the bottom, place them in containers and place them in a cool place. At a storage temperature of 0 C they do not lose quality for up to 1.5 months, when frozen all winter.

Mid-late varieties that ripen at the same time are ready for one-time harvesting in October-November. When harvesting this type, it is possible to cut down the stems near the ground, store them in heaps, and then separate the leaves and fruits.

Brussels sprouts can be stored fresh during the winter and consumed as needed. To do this, plants are dug up before the first frost and buried in sand in an inclined position in a basement or greenhouse.

If these conditions are not available, you can store them in the refrigerator by packing the stems with fruits in plastic bags.

Diseases and pests

The most dangerous in terms of their quantity and influence on cabbage leaves considered: cruciferous flea beetle, cabbage and sprout flies, cabbage whites.

No less dangerous for Brussels sprouts are diseases: rot, black leg, spotting, mosaic, bacteriosis, clubroot, white.

They are capable of partially and sometimes completely destroying the crop. To protect it, preventive measures are taken - these include following the rules for caring for these plants, planting crops around the perimeter that repel insects, using folk remedies.

If there is no result, it is necessary to use fungicides for treatment.

Growing Brussels sprouts is not difficult, the main thing is to follow the rules for growing this crop. And it will delight you with fruits of high nutritional value and its decorative appearance.

Many summer residents are engaged in growing Brussels sprouts. The vegetable is very useful, its appearance is unusual. You can get a good harvest only if you follow the growing technology. However, experienced gardeners are not afraid of difficulties and are happy to plant crops on their own plot.
Growing and caring for Brussels sprouts is a troublesome task. The vegetable is very popular, valued not only for its taste, but also beneficial properties. The culture is quite capricious and requires certain growing conditions.

Description of the variety

Cabbage is a biennial plant. It grows on a thick stem that can reach up to a meter in height. The leaves have a bubbly surface, green color with a purple tint.

In autumn, compact heads of cabbage ripen in the leaf axils. Their diameter does not exceed 5 cm. There can be up to 70 heads of cabbage on 1 stem. The next year the plants produce seeds. Their germination persists for 5 years.

The seedling method is used to grow cabbage. The growing season lasts 180 days. The variety is considered frost-resistant and can grow in frosts down to -10 degrees.

Features of agricultural technology

How to grow Brussels sprouts is of interest to many summer residents. To reap a rich harvest, you need to familiarize yourself with the growing technology in advance.

Crop rotation . Particular attention should be paid to crop rotation. The crop can be returned to its original site no earlier than after 5 years. The following crops are good predecessors: legumes, green manure, potatoes, onions, cucumbers.

Sowing time. You can sow seeds for seedlings at the end of March.

Proper care . The crop requires abundant watering, timely removal of weeds, protection from insects and diseases.

Planting work. It is necessary to plant plants in the garden bed when the seedling height is 10 cm. During this period, the plants will have 5 leaves and a well-developed root part.

Sowing seedlings

You can start working in the second half of March. In this case, the night temperature should be 5 degrees, daytime 16.

Please note. Seedlings should be placed on a balcony or in a heated greenhouse. Humidity should not exceed 70%.

Before sowing, the seeds need to be prepared. To do this, they should be heated in water at a temperature of 50 degrees, then immersed in cool water. Planting material must be kept in a solution of microelements for 12 hours, washed with water, and placed in a cool place for a day. Finally, the seeds should be dried.

Growing seedlings

You can see what Brussels sprouts seedlings look like in the photo. Before you start sowing, you should prepare boxes with fertile soil. You can buy soil at a specialized store, or you can make it yourself. To do this, mix turf soil, sand, peat, wood ash, and mineral compounds. Before planting, the soil must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The seeding depth is 1.5 cm. The distance between the seeds should be no more than 3 cm. The seedlings must be covered with glass. After 5 days, the first shoots will appear. As soon as this happens, the cover can be removed.

Caring for seedlings involves watering and loosening the soil. For 2 weeks after sowing the seeds, the plants should be watered regularly. Then you just need to moisten the soil if necessary.

Please note: You should be careful about watering. If the soil is over-moistened, crops may become infected with blackleg.

Cabbage pick

Before the procedure, it is necessary to water the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate. After this, the seedlings should be carefully removed from the ground and transplanted together with the lump into a separate container.

As soon as the seedlings have the first 3 leaves, it is necessary to fertilize them. After 2 weeks, the procedure must be repeated.

Planting seedlings in the garden

Before growing Brussels sprouts in open ground, it is necessary to harden the seedlings. For this purpose, it must be taken outside. Each time you spend time in the fresh air, you should increase it.

Seedlings should be planted in the garden in the first half of June. In this case, it is necessary to follow certain rules. Since the plant will large sizes, it is necessary to prepare a spacious area.

The distance between rows should be 0.6 m, between plants approximately 50 cm. Seedlings must be planted carefully, slightly hiding the stem in the ground.

Soil requirements

The crop must be planted in sunny areas. If there is insufficient light, plants will develop slowly, resulting in lower yields.

Cabbage has no special requirements for soil. The harvest will be able to be harvested even on poor lands. However, it is best to choose fertile, slightly acidic soils.

Caring for Brussels sprouts

To obtain a rich harvest, it is necessary to provide appropriate care for Brussels sprouts in open ground:

1. Temperature. The crop can tolerate light frosts, but heat is destructive for it. In order for the ovaries to form, you need to ensure a temperature within 20 degrees. If the indicator is above 25 degrees, the growth of the crop will stop.
2. Feeding. After 3 weeks from the moment of planting the seedlings, it is necessary to fertilize. Nitrogen compounds should be used as fertilizers.
   

   Important. Fertilizing should be done carefully. Excessive fertilization can kill plants. In August, another feeding will be required. To do this, it is worth using potassium and phosphate compounds.

3. Watering. You should be careful about watering, especially in hot weather. In case of high humidity, it is advisable to abandon the procedure. Excessive soil moisture can lead to rotting of the root system.
4. Loosening and hilling. During the entire growth period, the crop must be hilled several times. You should do the procedure carefully so as not to harm the root part.
   Loosening the soil is also an important procedure. Cabbage loves soil that allows oxygen to pass through.

Diseases and pests

If the crop is carefully looked after, diseases and pests appear in rare cases. The most common ailments are the following:

In addition, winter cutworms, cabbage flies, earthen fleas, and plant aphids are dangerous pests.

Chemicals will help protect crops.

Cleaning and storage

When growing cabbage, you need to learn how to harvest and preserve the crop. You can start cleaning in early October. The work must be completed before frost sets in.

Stems with stalks need to be cut and placed in damp sand in the basement. So the heads of cabbage can lie for 3 months.

In addition, cabbage can be frozen. In this form, the vegetable does not lose its nutritional value.

Types and varieties

Brussels sprouts have a lot various types. Each one is special and deserves attention. The main varieties are the following:

Advantages and disadvantages of Brussels sprouts

Cabbage is very healthy and has a number of advantages. The main ones are the following:

• contains vitamin C;
• can be stored for a long time;
• can be consumed not only fresh, but also preserved;
• the vegetable is useful for people with heart disease, patients diabetes mellitus;
• cabbage is allowed to be given to children.

When growing Brussels sprouts in open ground, it is necessary to follow agricultural techniques. Despite the many advantages of cabbage, there are some disadvantages:

• the culture is quite capricious, it needs to be protected from drafts;
• When there is insufficient light, plant growth stops.

Brussels sprouts are a very interesting plant, not very similar to the types of cabbage we are familiar with from childhood. Its tiny heads of cabbage are located on one stem, and all this together resembles a New Year tree. Growing Brussels sprouts is not difficult, but they are rarely planted in summer cottages and garden plots, since the total yield per unit area is small. However, it is a very nutritious, tasty and healthy vegetable.

Description of culture

Brussels sprouts have a thick stem from 30 to 70 cm high, bearing spirally arranged sparse long-petioled leaves, in the axils of which by autumn small heads (2–6 cm in diameter) and weight are formed in quantities of up to 40–60 pieces. On the stem they sit quite tightly to each other, but the lower ones are much larger than the upper ones, so the impression of a cone-shaped plant is created. The leaves are green, less often purple, with a weak or medium waxy coating.

When ripe, Brussels sprouts resemble either pyramids or palm trees

Brussels sprouts have excellent taste, the ability to withstand frosts down to -10 o C without damage and retain their original qualities for a long time. Small but dense heads of cabbage are convenient for canning and pickling in jars of any capacity, as well as for serving dishes.

High taste and nutritional qualities are due to the high protein content (up to 6.5%), which in terms of amino acids is not inferior to meat and milk protein. In terms of the content of vitamins and minerals, Brussels sprouts are significantly superior to other types of cabbage.

This crop is low in calories, which is useful for those on a diet. Negative qualities: it is low-yielding, demanding on highly nutritious soils with moderate constant moisture.

This cabbage is most popular in Western Europe, especially in Holland and Great Britain. In Russia, it is grown relatively little, and in amateur gardens it is very rare.

Popular varieties of Brussels sprouts

A couple of decades ago it could be said that there were few varieties of this type of cabbage, and there were no early ones at all. Times have changed, and through the efforts of breeders, varieties and hybrids of Brussels sprouts have been developed that differ in ripening time and consumer properties.

Between varieties and hybrids, it is better to choose hybrid options: they are more protected from diseases and pests. Most varieties were bred in Holland and Germany, but there is also cabbage of Russian selection.

Late and mid-late varieties

In Russia, rather late varieties, known since the last century, are most often planted:

• since the 1950s The Hercules variety is grown, bred at the All-Russian Research Institute for Selection and Seed Production of Vegetable Crops. From the emergence of seedlings to the start of harvesting, Hercules takes 5 months. The total height of the plant can be from 40 to 70 cm. There are several varieties of the variety. Currently, the most popular is Hercules 1342, its bush is low, up to 60 cm. Up to 30 oval heads of cabbage grow on the stem with a diameter of up to 5 cm and weighing about 12 g each. The leaves are green or gray-green. The yield is low, but the variety is famous for its excellent taste; the fruits are consumed both processed and fresh, they differ increased content ascorbic acid;
• Brussels sprouts Komandor have approximately the same ripening period; on a small stem, up to 40 dense heads of very good taste grow with a diameter of no more than 4 cm. The overall yield is slightly higher than that of Hercules. Cabbage is consumed mainly after cooking. Withstands freezing well without losing nutritional qualities, the vitamin content is balanced;
• The late-ripening Czech variety Zavitka is one of the best for growing in the middle zone, but it is planted in many regions of Russia, as well as in neighboring republics. From germination to harvest it takes from 160 to 190 days. The plant is very tall: the stem is slightly less than 1 m. It grows up to 30–35 large dense heads with a diameter of about 6 cm and weighing up to 15 g, their shape can be either round or oval. The total yield reaches about 2.5 kg/m2, which is quite a lot for Brussels sprouts. The leaves are green with a gray tint, the fruits inside are yellow-green. High yields require increased doses of fertilizers and water. The products have a universal purpose: they can be used both raw and in the form of various dishes, suitable for canning and long-term storage;
• Dutch hybrid Boxer F1 - medium late, ripens in 5 months. It has been grown in Russia since the mid-1990s. Suitable for all regions, including the Urals and Siberia. It has increased resistance to frost, as well as diseases and pests. The height of the plant is up to 70 cm, the leaves are green or blue-green, with a strong waxy coating. Green heads of cabbage are round or oval, medium in size, dense, low yield. The taste of the product is characterized as good, universal use, long shelf life;
• Perfection cabbage has an excellent taste. This is one of the best mid-late varieties for the middle zone and the Siberian region. A universal-purpose, high-yielding variety. The bush is compact and strong. The fruits are small, round-oval. Productivity is high. The variety is frost-resistant, disease-resistant;
• The Czech variety Casio has been grown in our country since the end of the twentieth century, has increased frost resistance, and the growing season is almost 6 months. The leaves are green, bubbly, with a slight waxy coating. The heads of cabbage are small, no larger than 2–3 cm, dense, green with a blue tint; there can be up to 80 of them on one stem up to 1 m high. The yield is not bad, up to 3 kg per 1 m2. The taste is excellent, the purpose is universal, they store well;
• A fairly new variety, Grüninger, is distinguished by the unusual orange-green color of its ripe heads. Ripening later, the yield is high, since each plant bears up to 80 relatively large fruits. Mainly used after cooking: taste ready meals characterized as magnificent and delicate. Consumer qualities improve somewhat after slight frosts;
• the late Russian variety Sapphire bears fruit in small heads of 2–4 cm in size, round in shape and of medium density. Since there are no more than 30 of them on each plant, the overall yield is low. The variety is famous for its excellent taste and dietary properties. Recommended both for preparing various side dishes and soups, and for fresh consumption, suitable for canning;
• the Sanda variety belongs to the late group. The stem grows up to 1 m, bears about 40 medium-sized green heads. They are dense, round in shape, weighing from 10 to 15 g. The variety has a very long shelf life, the taste does not deteriorate at all from freezing. Resistant to various diseases and extreme cold.

Photo gallery: late and mid-late varieties of Brussels sprouts

Hercules is a variety of Brussels sprouts, the very first to take root in our country Brussels sprouts Commander is a good competitor to Hercules
Brussels sprouts Boxer F1 suitable for all climate conditions Casio Brussels sprouts taste great
Brussels sprouts Sapphire - one of the most delicious varieties Brussels sprouts Sanda - a variety whose taste is not spoiled by frost

Early varieties

There are no truly early varieties of Brussels sprouts. The growing season of the crop is long: first a powerful stem must grow, then numerous heads of cabbage are tied on it. Even varieties considered early require at least 5 months before the harvest ripens.:

• Dolmik F1 is one of the best early hybrids, bred in Holland. Known in Russia since 1994. The height is relatively small, just over 0.5 m. The leaves are gray to gray-green, slightly concave, bubbly, with a medium waxy coating. The fruits are green or light green in color, relatively large, weighing from 15 g. Productivity is above average. The hybrid is especially popular in the Urals and Siberia;
• The German variety Rosella is considered mid-early; the heads of cabbage are cut 160 days after the plants emerge. There are about 50 of them on each plant, medium in size, round to oval in shape, blue-green in color. The stem length reaches 90 cm. Productivity and taste are average. The advantages of the variety are the simultaneous ripening of all heads on the plant and their good preservation;
• The mid-early Dutch frost-resistant hybrid Diablo F1 bears medium-sized fruits of emerald color. Their total weight on one plant can reach up to 1 kg, and their number can reach 55–60 pieces. Resistant to fusarium. Productivity is good and does not depend on the climate zone. The harvest can be stored for a long time and is used in different forms.

Photo gallery: early varieties of Brussels sprouts

Brussels sprouts Dolmik - one of the best among the earliest varieties
Rosella Brussels sprouts can be cut off all the heads at once Brussels sprout variety Diablo is resistant to fusarium

How to Plant Brussels Sprouts

The agricultural technology of Brussels sprouts is similar to late varieties of white cabbage. The best soils are fertile loams. She most loves organic fertilizers applied during autumn digging. An even more correct option is to add them when growing previous crops.

It is not advisable to apply fresh manure immediately before planting during spring preparation of beds. This leads to a decrease in the quality of the crop.

Since the growing season for Brussels sprouts is long, always, except for the southernmost regions, seedling cultivation is required, which is usually carried out in greenhouse conditions. It is difficult to grow high-quality seedlings in an apartment: they do not like high temperatures and need large number sunlight.

Do you need to soak Brussels sprouts seeds?

In some manuals you can read that Brussels sprouts seeds must be soaked, otherwise they will take a long time to germinate. Seeing such lines, one is immediately overcome, as the hero of one of the famous comedies said, with “vague doubts” about the author’s qualifications. Yes, sometimes cabbage seeds are soaked, but this has nothing to do with the desire to get quick shoots. Brussels sprouts seeds, like any other, unless they are very expired, sprout perfectly after a few days when sown dry, even at low positive temperatures. And if “wet” treatment for cabbage seeds is needed, it is for other purposes.

It is unlikely that you will get Brussels sprout seeds of unknown origin from somewhere. No one here specifically grows them in their garden: cabbage is a biennial plant and produces seeds in the second year. A Russian gardener, even if he plants this crop on his plot, will eat the entire harvest, and next year he will simply buy the seeds in the store.

If you have any doubts, you can go full circle. Some fans who have a lot of free time even soak cabbage seeds in water for several days. True, it is not known whether they sprout after this. Many people disinfect seeds in hot water or a solution of potassium permanganate. This operation is useful if the seeds are from a not very worthy company. Soaking in fertilizer solutions (nitrophoska, urea, boric acid) and even growth stimulants is also described. Well, as they say, if you have an irresistible desire... You can also read about hardening wet seeds in the refrigerator. But cabbage doesn’t need this, it’s not tomatoes, cabbage is a frost-resistant crop.

So: you can, of course, soak the seeds, but there’s not much point in it. If this is done, before sowing the seeds must be dried until they flow. But don’t overdo it, otherwise they will refuse to sprout because of excessive care over them.

Growing seedlings at home

Although Brussels sprouts are an exceptionally cold-resistant crop, the timing of sowing seeds for seedlings must be determined based on the expected date of planting them in open ground. Since this can be done no earlier than May (focusing on the climate of the middle zone), and the seedlings should be approximately 35–45 days old, it turns out that the time for sowing seeds falls on the end of March or the beginning of April. In the southern regions, seedlings can be started to be grown even earlier.

Of course, in the south it would be possible to sow the seeds directly into open ground. Sometimes they do this, but this is not entirely advisable, since immediately, already in March, you need to have a large ready-made bed, where 2-3 seeds should be sown in holes at a distance of about 60–70 cm. It is more rational to use a small nursery (and, if necessary, a greenhouse), and then plant the cabbage in a permanent place; She is quite loyal to the transplant. In the middle zone, you can sow in open ground no earlier than mid-April.

Like all types of cabbage, the Brussels variety does not like excessive heat when growing seedlings, but is demanding on lighting. Therefore, it is almost impossible to grow good seedlings in a city apartment with hot radiators; this must be done in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Throughout its life in a box or pots, seedlings need a daytime temperature of 14–16°C, and at night only 8–10°C (immediately after emergence it is lowered). Sometimes glazed balconies or loggias help out, but even there you need to constantly monitor the temperature. But there is enough light on the balcony, unlike in the room, for the cabbage.

The leaves of young Brussels sprouts differ little from the leaves of other cabbage plants.

Sowing seeds

You can sow the seeds directly into separate pots, preferably peat ones, but it is better to sow them in a common box and then plant them in separate containers. The box can be of any size, but the soil layer must be at least 5–6 cm. It is better to take soil that is water- and breathable, for example, turf soil mixed with sand. If there is good humus, you can also add it, and if not, at least wood ash. In regions rich in peat, soil mixtures are prepared based on it.

Step by step sowing process:

1. In a box with soil, grooves are marked at a distance of about 5–6 cm from each other; prepared seeds are sown in them at intervals of 2.5–3 cm. The planting depth is about 1 cm.
2. Water with settled water or a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate.
3. It is better to cover the box with glass or transparent film after sowing, but if the room is not very dry, the seeds will sprout just like that (in a week or earlier).
4. You must immediately move the box to a bright, cool place: for the first few days the temperature should not exceed 10 o C during the day and 6 o C at night.
5. Watering seedlings should be very moderate: the slightest stagnation of water threatens the most dangerous disease- black leg.

Picking seedlings

After 10–12 days, the first true leaves will begin to appear on the seedlings. Without waiting for them to grow, the seedlings must be picked. For this you need medium-sized pots, approximately 200 cm3 in volume. You can even plant them in a large common box, especially if the space in the apartment is limited.

When picking, cabbage seedlings are planted in separate containers

The picking is usual: we make holes in cups with a sharp object like a pencil, carefully select seedlings from a common box in which we water them well a few hours before, lightly pinch the roots and lower the seedlings into the holes up to the cotyledon leaves. We gently squeeze the roots with soil, water them and place the seedlings in a warmer place (about 18–20 o C) for 2–3 days, covering them from bright sunlight.

Seedling care

In a few days, the seedlings will take root in the new place, and the temperature must again be lowered and the maximum light given. Caring for seedlings consists of periodic moderate watering and 1-2 feedings. It is necessary to water carefully, at the root, the easiest way is from a small teapot. A week after picking and 7–10 days before planting seedlings in the garden, a small dose of complex mineral fertilizer should be added to the irrigation water. Better - special for cabbage, maybe something like azofoska. The standards are written on the packaging; It would be better to leave them a little short than to overdo them.

A week before planting, seedlings are hardened off by opening windows and doors or simply taking the pots out into the fresh air for a while. The finished seedlings should have no less than 4 and no more than 6 true leaves and be about 20 cm high.

Ready seedlings must have at least 4 and no more than 6 true leaves and be about 20 cm high

Planting Brussels sprouts in open ground

The garden bed, as for most vegetables, is best prepared in the fall, when it is much easier to do. When digging, you need to add manure or compost (at least a bucket per 1 m2), phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (30–40 g each) or liter jar wood ash. The best soil should have a slightly alkaline reaction, therefore, on acidic soils, preliminary liming with chalk or slaked lime is necessary. In the spring, the bed only needs to be loosened with a rake; repeated digging is not necessary.

The most convenient scheme for planting Brussels sprouts is 70 x 60 cm. The planting technique is usual. We make deep holes, add fertilizers to them (1 tbsp of ash is enough), mix them with soil and water them. We plant the seedlings, removing them from the pots with a clod of earth if possible. If it has managed to stretch out, we deepen it almost to the leaves; if the seedlings are of high quality, they are at the same level as they grew before transplanting.

Water well, mulch with dry soil or humus. If it's shining bright sun, you need to cover it with grass or paper caps for a couple of days.

Care

Caring for cabbage in open ground consists of loosening the soil, accompanied by slight hilling of the plants, as well as watering and fertilizing.

Watering

Watering, unlike growing seedlings, requires frequent and abundant watering. There should not be stagnation of water, but most often it does not happen: this cabbage consumes a lot of water, especially during growth. It is better to water at the root, but in hot weather sprinkling can also be useful. Afterwards, loosening is necessary, as long as the size of the plants allows. Weeds must be removed systematically.

Feeding

Frequent fertilizing is not necessary: ​​it is enough to apply additional fertilizers only twice during the entire summer. The first time this should be done 7–10 days after planting in the ground, using azofoska. Dose - about 0.5 tsp. per plant (dilute in water and distribute between plants in moist soil). After half an hour, water the bed again.

Azofoska is convenient because the three main nutrients are in the most convenient ratio

The second feeding is given at the beginning of the formation of heads. At this point, you don’t need a lot of nitrogen anymore, so take 1 tbsp per bucket of water. l. azophosphate, superphosphate and potassium sulfate: this will give you a little nitrogen, but more potassium and phosphorus. If the bed has been well stocked with organic matter since the fall, no more fertilizer is required: with the slightest excess, the cabbage becomes flabby and tasteless.

Harvesting

A month before harvesting, pinch (cut off) the tops of plants. This technique accelerates the ripening of heads of cabbage and increases the yield. Brussels sprouts are harvested with the onset of the first autumn frosts, while on plants selected for winter storage, the leaves are preserved along with the heads. In this form, in the basement or cellar it is installed obliquely in rows and sprinkled with sand, where it can be stored until February.

Video: Brussels sprouts from sowing seeds to harvesting

Features of growing Brussels sprouts in the regions

Now Brussels sprouts are in large quantities grown in many countries in Europe and America. In Russia, the most favorable climatic conditions are in the Central region. But they also plant it in the northern and southern regions of our country.

Central Russia

Central Russia is best suited for growing Brussels sprouts: there is almost no extreme heat here (except for 2010), and the amount of rain sometimes allows you to do without watering. Everything written above mainly applies specifically to the conditions of the middle zone. Here cabbage is cultivated exclusively through seedlings, which they try to grow in greenhouses. Enthusiasts also sometimes try direct sowing of seeds into a garden bed in a permanent place, but this must be done in mid-April, and the weather at this time is still unstable.

Moscow region

The Moscow region is part of a part of Russia that is considered to be the middle zone, but experts in agriculture it is often separated out on a separate line. The climate of the Moscow region is famous for its unpredictability, which, to some extent, is due to the high urbanization of the territory. In winter, severe frosts and unexpected prolonged thaws occur here. This prevents the cultivation of some crops, the roots of which react painfully to such alternation. However, this does not apply to cabbage.

Previously, it was believed that only one variety was zoned in the Moscow region - Hercules, but now the choice of varieties is extremely large. However, it is better to plant not the latest varieties and hybrids here. Brussels sprouts are grown in the Moscow region only through the seedling stage. Plants almost never spud. The top bud is cut off at the very beginning of autumn, and after another month the entire top is removed. Harvesting is carried out in mid-October in several stages, cutting out the heads as they ripen.

Siberia

It is generally accepted that the climate in Siberia is harsh. But, firstly, Siberia is large, and the climate there is different. And secondly, the severity applies to the winter months, and in the summer in Krasnoyarsk it can reach temperatures above 30 o C. But the summer is quite short, and this is precisely the main problem with growing Brussels sprouts, which should grow for about six months. Therefore, you have to choose the earliest varieties and, of course, grow them only through seedlings. Seeds are sown in greenhouses from late February to April, and planted in open ground no earlier than mid-May. By this time, the February plantings are already outgrowing, so they can also be grown in greenhouses, under light cover.

Ural region

In summer, the weather in the regions of the Urals is very similar to Siberian, so the cultivation of Brussels sprouts here is also limited both by timing and by the correct selection of varieties. Sowing seeds in a greenhouse begins with the arrival of calendar spring, at the very beginning of March. Rosella is considered one of the varieties suitable for the Urals, and the best is Dolmik F1. In addition, mid-season Perfection, Boxer and Diablo are popular. If the apical bud on cabbage is not removed at the end of summer, you may not get a harvest in the Urals: autumn does not fall, and severe cold may come too early.

Kuban

In the southern regions of our country, such as Kuban, Stavropol, Astrakhan region, Brussels sprouts can be planted with seeds directly into open ground. This is possible already in mid-March, and only those gardeners who do not want to plow large areas at this time grow seedlings first. Those who want to receive products earlier sow seeds in a greenhouse in winter. For the usual ripening period, you can sow the seeds in a small bed right in the garden in March, and by the May holidays, plant the cabbage in the usual way in a permanent place.

Any varieties and hybrids can be grown here, and failure can only occur if the weather is too hot. It must be said frankly that the southern climate is not very suitable for growing any types of cabbage; this vegetable does not like high temperature. But in most seasons in Kuban, good harvests are still obtained.

In this article we will teach you how to plant Brussels sprouts correctly. . We'll tell you what the soil should be like and how often you need to water the plant. Not only will you learn something new, but you will also learn several interesting facts about cabbage.

Did you know? Carl Linnaeus was the first to scientifically describe cabbage, calling it Brussels cabbage in honor of the Belgian gardeners from Brussels. In Belgium, Brussels sprouts were developed from ordinary kale.

Proper planting of Brussels sprouts

Often, improper planting can lead to at least a poor ovary, and in the worst case, to the death of the plant. Therefore, we will find out when and how to plant Brussels sprouts.

Soil requirements

A special mixture is prepared for the seeds (turf soil + sand in equal proportions). After this, 2 tablespoons of wood ash and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate are added to this mixture. The seedling boxes are filled with the earth mixture and watered with the preparation “Hom” (15 g per 5 liters of water). Furrows 1 cm deep are made in the substrate (the distance between the furrows is 10 cm), after which the seeds are placed, covered with soil, and pressed lightly.

The temperature in the room with the boxes should be about 20˚C. The light does not have to be good, but you should not store the boxes in a cellar or basement with a complete lack of lighting. After a week, shoots begin. During this period, you need to reduce the temperature during the day to +6-8˚С, and at night – to +9-12˚С.

Important! The temperature is reduced after germination so that the plant becomes stronger and can be planted in open ground.

After the first true leaf appears on a young cabbage, it can be picked (transplanted) to another place (a more spacious box or glass). It is also worth knowing that when picking to another place, the cabbage must be buried in the soil up to the cotyledon leaves. Seedlings need to be watered with water at room temperature +18-20˚C. It is important to fertilize the seedlings. This is done in 2 stages:

1. After two leaves appear on a young plant, it is fed with a nutrient solution (half a microelement tablet per 1 liter of water).
2. During the hardening period of seedlings. At this time, feeding is a mixture of 1 spoon of urea and potassium sulfate per bucket of water (70-100 ml is poured under each plant).

Before planting cabbage on the plot, you need to harden it. To do this, 15 days before transplanting, boxes/cups with seedlings must be regularly taken out into the sun and hardened at low temperatures (it is important not to overdo it, after all, the plant has not yet become strong).

Seedlings ready for planting in open ground should have 5-6 leaves, a stem thickness of about 5 cm and a height of at least 20 cm. A week before planting, watering is completely stopped (this will not harm the plant). A day before planting in open soil, water the plant abundantly so that as much soil as possible sticks to the roots.

When sowing Brussels sprouts, it is imperative to carry out preparatory steps. Before planting, seeds should be wrapped in a damp cloth for 4-5 days. After this, the seeds are dipped in warm water (50˚C) for 15 minutes, and then in cold water for a minute (these actions are carried out to prevent possible diseases). Next, the seeds are soaked in a nitrophoska solution (1 tsp per 1 liter of water) for 15-16 hours.

For better resistance to frost, seeds are stored in the refrigerator at a temperature of -1˚C. These actions are important, as they rid the plant of diseases and pests and increase resistance to frost.

Optimal planting dates

Seeds are planted at different times, which depend on the cabbage variety. Early varieties begin to be planted in mid-March, late varieties - from April 10. Ready seedlings are planted in open ground in early June.

Planting pattern and depth

You have Brussels sprouts seedlings, now you need to properly plant them in open ground. To do this, you need to follow certain planting rules.

Since the plant grows to an impressive size, you need to allocate enough space when planting on the site. The width between rows must be at least 0.6 m. In a row, the distance between plants should be at least 40-50 cm. The planting depth should correspond to the length of the roots of the seedlings. In this case, it is better to hide the stem a little in the ground than to leave the roots on the surface.

Did you know? Brussels sprouts are recommended as a dietary product for those suffering from cardiovascular diseases.

The subtleties of growing and caring for Brussels sprouts

We looked at how to plant Brussels sprouts as seedlings, now we move on to the rules for caring for the plant.

Good and bad predecessors

Before planting seedlings in open ground, it is worth remembering what grew in this place before. There are crops after which it is possible and even necessary to plant Brussels sprouts. But there are also those after which the plant cannot be planted.

You should not plant Brussels sprouts after the following crops:white or any other cabbage, beets, turnips, tomatoes, radishes and radishes. If you plant Brussels sprouts after these crops, you may forget about a good harvest.

Important! After bad predecessors, the place for planting Brussels sprouts will be unsuitable for another 3 years.

If you plant Brussels sprouts after legumes, green manure, potatoes, onions, cucumbers or grains, then additional fertilizing does not need to be applied to the soil. These crops are excellent predecessors to Brussels sprouts.

Watering and fertilizing cabbage

We will begin our consideration of fertilizers for Brussels sprouts by describing the soil that is ideal for the plant. Indeed, depending on the soil, the amount of fertilizer will be different.

This crop is not demanding on the substrate, but it is worth choosing loamy, fertile soil that “breathes” well. The soil should be moist, but during drought the cabbage will not dry out due to the structure of the root system. If you plan to plant on new land, then you should add about 4-5 kg ​​of humus per meter of occupied area, or use the following mix: urea, superphosphate, potassium chloride and nitroammophoska.

Important! These fertilizers must be applied to unoccupied soil, otherwise the Brussels sprouts will produce a meager harvest and may become diseased.

After fertilizing, the beds are dug up and watered with a solution of potassium permanganate (1.5 g per 5 liters of water). Another treatment option is the drug Fitosporin, which is used 2 weeks before planting.

10 days after planting the cabbage seedlings, you need to feed them with nitrogen fertilizers.(do not overdo it, otherwise the plant will die). At the end of July - August, you need to apply a second portion of fertilizing - potassium phosphate fertilizers.

Water Brussels sprouts sparingly. In hot weather, you can water the plant a little more; in high humidity, you can refuse watering. Don't overwater the cabbage, otherwise you'll end up with root rot.

Hilling and loosening the soil

During the growth process, Brussels sprouts are hilled several times with a small layer of soil (this must be done carefully so as not to cover the lower heads of cabbage).

Important! To strengthen a tall plant, stakes are installed to which the plant is tied.

As stated above, the plant loves soil that allows oxygen to pass through well. Therefore, it is worth frequently loosening the soil so that the roots of the plant do not suffocate.

Pest protection

Pest protection is as important as watering and fertilizing the plant. Without treatment or prevention of diseases, you will not get the desired harvest.

Brussels sprouts are susceptible to the same pests as cabbage. Therefore, if Brussels sprouts and white cabbage are planted on the site, then prevention should be carried out in both species.

1. Cruciferous flea beetles

The following solution will help protect against them: 1 tbsp. l. 70% vinegar per 10 liters of water. A one-time treatment is enough.

A biological cure for flea beetles is lettuce, which is planted in the rows.

Holes on irregularly shaped leaves are made by insects, the adults of which do not harm the plant. The damage is caused by the larvae. They are deposited by a fly in the soil near the plant. The larvae destroy young plants of early varieties.

It is better to fight the pest before the cabbage is damaged. To do this, sprinkle the soil around the plant with a mixture (100 g of wood ash, tobacco dust and 1 liter of ground black pepper). A tobacco solution is also used (200 g of tobacco per 10 liters of water with the addition of 1 liter of soap). The solution is cooled, filtered and sprayed on both the plant itself and the soil near it.

Butterflies that lay eggs on the back of cabbage leaves. Green caterpillars completely eat the leaves and heads of cabbage.

The pest must be dealt with promptly so that the plant does not dry out. You can use a solution of wood ash (300 g of ash and 1 spoon of liquid soap per 10 liters of water). Hilling and loosening the soil also slows down the spread of caterpillars.

The simplest option is a fine mesh used to cover the bushes. Thus, the butterfly simply will not be able to lay eggs on the leaves.

You need to fight aphids as follows: 150 g of wood ash, 150 g of shag, 1 tbsp. l. liquid soap, 1 tbsp. l. ground mustard; pour 2-3 liters of mixture hot water(80-85˚С) and leave for a day. After the solution has infused, add 7 liters of water and filter. The treatment is carried out once every 3-4 days, spraying the affected areas with aphids. Also, when fighting aphids, other folk methods that can be applied to Brussels sprouts are also suitable.

These pests can be easily removed mechanically, however, if the bushes are very badly affected, traditional methods of pest control can be used. To kill snails and slugs, you need to prepare a mixture: 2 tablespoons of ground pepper, 2 tablespoons of mustard, 2 tablespoons of salt and 500 g of wood ash. On a sunny day, sprinkle the soil around the Brussels sprouts with the mixture and immediately loosen it to a depth of 4-5 cm. On the same day, in the evening, treat it a second time (500 g of ash + 1 tablespoon of ground pepper). The mixture is sprinkled over the body of the plant.

Treatment is carried out at intervals of 4-5 days.

Harvest and storage

Let's move on to the final point, in which we will tell you how to collect and store Brussels sprouts.

Early varieties of Brussels sprouts are harvested in one go, late varieties - in 2-3 approaches. When collecting heads of cabbage from early varieties, a week before harvesting, they tear off all the leaves on the bush (they cut down the bush at the base, and only then pick off the heads of cabbage).